Science Museum

Trash Fashion: Designing Out of Waste

"Dyes run, polymers break down and toxic chemicals ooze into the environment."

The procedure of producing clothes is severely wasteful nowadays.  A great number of chemicals stay in the water cycle forever which pollutes the environment.  Materials such as polyester and other synthetics can also harm the nature due to their everlasting features that take centuries to decay.

Trash Fashion demonstrates how designers can create clothing without waste by experimenting new technology and techniques.

BioCouture

'BioCouture' is made out of cellulose produced by tiny millions of bacteria grown in the bathtubs of sweet green tea which can be a good ecological replacement for Cotton, which requires a great amount of water. The bacteria 'Acetobacter' use the sugar in the green tea to produce floating mats of cellulose. Designer Suzanne Lee utilized this bacteria in order to create her 'BioCouture' clothing. However, this technique has not been in use because "it breaks down a little too easily"(S. Lee).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVW-jSdhILs

Sugar Rush

This skirt is made out of 'Ingeo'- a 'bioplastic' called polylactic acid (PLA) produced from plant sugar. 'Ingeo' is a great ecological alternative for polyester which is made from oil.  Since it is created from plants such as corn, wheat, and sugar cane, it is very possible to reproduce in a short period of time.
Furthermore, the fact that PLA is recyclable can be another solution for the waste problem. 

Easier Recycling

Kate Goldsworthy demonstrates cutting, joining, and decorating a polyester dress by using a powerful laser beams. This method is pure and free from chemical coating.

Laser Aperture - creates patterns
It is better to use one type of material which makes it easier to recycle.


Throughout the exhibition, I was shocked by the outrageous amount of material waste and its severe damage on environment. Due to the negative effect, I recognized new methods of producing textiles that are both ecological and economical.



Challenge of Materials

Neoprene (Stomatex- shoes)

'Neoprene' is "a family of synthetic rubbers that are produced by polymerization of chloroprene."Containing gas cells, this is used as an insulation material, most notably in wetsuits.

This "Stomatex, Neoprene Shoes" stabilizes the heat which passes through the shoe. This design imitates the way leaves get rid of water through pores called "stomata." The wearer is kept cool when he weather is hot and cold.

Portobello Road/Market

Rough Guide

  Throughout Rough Guide project, I have discovered another side of Notting Hill, an area in West London. My previous visit to this area has given me an impression of attractive and massive Victorian houses on streets with trendy restaurants, bars, and clothing shops. However, my second visit on one Saturday has made me have another fantastic view that is totally different from what I had seen before.
   Portobello Market on Saturday is an exception in this quiet and residential area. This is held on the entire Portobello Road which approximately stretches about two miles. Buildings were simple yet colorful and they are on each side sharing pretty much the same heights which made me feel cozy and fun while walking along the road.
  Not only the buildings but also little shops and fresh fruits and bread on the market stalls grabbed my attention. Everything was so fresh that they looked as if they were artificial at some point (although they were real!). It was also fun to watch many people were squeezed in order to buy them while owners were yelling out the price. This scene has brought me a bit of warmth and kindness in the busiest and the most thriving city, London.

  In contrast to Notting Hill today, it used to be one the notorious parts of the borough of Kensington and Chelsea. The image of the area was totally different from those of today.

  Two centuries ago, the area was little more than wasteland. It was only in 1840 that the area became more residential with the construction of the Ladbroke and Norland estates. At that time, Notting Hill was either known as the Potteries (because of the nearby pottery works) or the Piggeries (after the three-to-one ratio of pigs to people - how glam!). These large houses were carved up into multiple dwellings, and after World War II the area worsened to become slums.

  Notting Hill also became home to a large number of Afro-Caribbean immigrants, and racial tension often arose - Britain's first race riots occurred in the area in August 1958. However, the following year the Notting Hill Carnival emerged as a unofficial reply to the riots; by 1965 it took to the streets and has grown ever since. Its presence in the last weekend of August sees around one million people joining the party, backing up the claim that it is the world's biggest street festival outside Rio. Although the carnival has seen some trouble in the past, it is a relatively safe event now. 

Textiles and Worldwide Trade 1600-1900

Dr. Clair Rose's lecture was about how India influenced on British Design and its industry.

Europeans knew that Indian textiles were worthy enough to trade with other countries (i.e. coffee, gold, spice...etc).
Indian textiles including silk and cashmere, which could only be produced within the area due to the climate, were viewed as luxurious goods for Europeans.
Silk were made from worms that eat leaves from Mulberry which only grows in warm area.
Cashmere is hair from goats that live in cashmere.
Indians also dyed clothes and fabrics that do not wash out (mordent) which Europeans had no idea how to do this. Furthermore, Indigo, dye from India, made their textiles so special.

"Muslin" Fabric
softer and lighter than linen. very fine

"Chintz" was a new technique during the time which also could be washed.


Although Indians had never seen what was out there, they knew exactly what was there. They were great at making unique patterns such as paisley and zig zag called "tumpa."

European Households adored Chintz. 1620,50,000 of Chintz were imported and they were also cheap for middle class.
Delicacy of Indian textiles made easier for Europeans to produce Neo-Classic dresses. European Linens were too hard to make delicate and sophisticated dresses. On the other hand, soft and light Indian fabrics made this capable.

Trade after 1770 - Advantages to Britain

'Spinning Jenny,' a machine, was used for spinning cotton. Not only the machine but also the water power and steam power for the machine resulted a major export to Britain.
Cottons were produced in Britain; however, the designs were terrible comparing to those of India.
British manufacturers studied Indian and other Asian's tastes which led them make printed cottons that later were sold in India, China, and Western Africa. This caused British to take over the export (Cotton) and they made sure fabrics (Cotton) cheaper than hand made Chintz from India.


V&A Museum had many items made with Indian textiles.  They were colorful and well made with every detail. Although I could not touch :( , I could tell how soft some of the fabrics were. Some pieces were also demonstrating how Indian textiles were used to make European dresses and interiors which satisfied the housewives.

Kincob - Benares (varanasi), India 1850 / silk

 

 

Caraco (Jacket) and petticoat / Cotton, painted and dyed

 

Palampore (bed cover or hanging)
Unknown
Southern India
18th century
Painted and printed chintz cotton
Museum no: IM85-1937

British Museum 2

Collecting things, Collecting people

African Gallery

After the lecture by Dr. Clair Rose, we visited British Museum to see African Artifacts which are related to "collecting things, collecting people."

Europeans often collected African artifacts during Colonial Wars. They invaded African countries such as Benin (in modern Nigeria), a kingdom with natural resources, in order to obtain raw materials such as ivory, bronze, and gold...etc.

Benin Plaque: the oba with Europeans

http://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_image.aspx?image=benin.jpg&retpage=28772

This Benin Plaque originally from Nigeria was taken by the British in 1897 during during the British Punitive Expedition.  

Tree of Life 

http://www.britishmuseum.org/explore/highlights/highlight_image.aspx?image=com13492a.jpg&retpage=16120

The Tree of Life was made by four Mozambican artists: Cristovao Canhavato (Kester), Hilario Nhatugueja, Fiel dos Santos and Adelino Serafim Maté.

Since Mozambique's civil war, a great number of weapons were still buried in the bush. This project is made to encourage people to trade these weapons with ploughs and bicycles - getting rid of threat of these weapons.

As the weapons were deactivated, the artists in Maputo created a sculpture out of them.

British Museum 1

Cradle to Grave by Pharmacopoeia 

This work is by pharmacopoeia: Susie Freeman, Dr Liz Lee and David Critchley.

'Pockets' of  knitted nylon filament.

Each length contains over 14,000 drugs, the estimated average prescribed to every person in Britain in their lifetime. This does not include pills we might buy over the counter, which would require about 40,000 pills each.

one evening at chelsea
interesting plants whose name is.... (?)